Friday, 8 February 2013

Menswear: Givenchy 2013 Spring/Summer Collection Review

My favourite look

For those who don't know Givenchy is by far one of my favourite luxury brands. I am especially in love with Riccardo Tisci's Spring/Summer collection. 

Two fundamental building blocks; family and religion dominate Riccardo Tisci’s world. He reflected on both these fundamentals and growing up as a Catholic boy in Southern Italy through his spring/summer 2013 menswear collection.In this collection he went back to his roots by reminiscing on his communion and his religion through this collection. 

The taboo of religion and sex has always gone hand in hand, Tisci finely tuned sense of the power, spirituality and allure of saintless and sin, through this collection and successfully managed to integrate both better than he has ever done before.

The setup was thick air and church organs to give the audience the appropriate mood while they watched and keeping that certain formal air of detachment.

“The cult of communion” was his starting point. From here we see how a child’s communion gown could have looked innocent, but Tisci spookily printed it with vestigial faces that looked like the Shroud of Turin. The gold hollowed face of the Virgin Mary was the leitmotif of the collection. It came stamped boldly on boxy shirts, looked almost alive on layers of semitransparent silk tops.

The designer had artists reinterpret classic religious imagery to provide the collection with a strong graphic backbone. The tees and sweats have made Tisci’s work for Givenchy so recognisable and visible presence around the world right now.

Tisci built his looks out of panels of fabric that when placed on top of one another that became outfits that fit together. A straight long shirt would finish well below a square cut jacket and accentuate the line of a more fitted pant or a crisp white shirt would be embellished with architectural cuts of cream coloured leather on the front and paired with trousers that featured panels of fabric resembling the tops of suit pants. Each look was paired with sandles with chain detail and a rubber sole.

He plays with layering and proportion which could easily suggest priestly vestments- there was indeed a certain virtuousness in the white collar that peeked from under black coat. Punk pope, in the papal-red details on tees printed with abstract Madonna faces.

The designer also evoked questions about how the world defines what it considers to be a masculine or feminine wardrobe. Already his menswear pieces are being bought and worn by women across the globe. This show underlined that fact by sending out a number of female models on the catwalk who were indistinguishable from their male counterparts. Also the inclusion of perhaps the most girly of colours, princess pink on satin is a statement about changing sterotypes.

This by far is one of my favourite collections because of the risqué combination of sexuality, religion and what may be considered the cult aspect of religion, all those aspects combined to create a very powerful show and collection.

A collection of my favourite looks:

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